Building Trust Absolute trust on the part of the bitch in her owner is of vital importance to the progress of a birth. As I see it,any aggression on the part of the bitch toward her owner is a sure sign of a lack of trust. Unfortunately, we frequently hear accounts of bitches responding aggressively to any human approach in the first few days after whelping. These accounts document a serious failing on the part of the owners. The excuse is sometimes put forward that the bitch is reverting to the behavior of her ancestors. However, at the research station of the society for research into Domestic Animals, there have been numerous litters born throughout the years to wolves, jackals, dingoes, and wild dogs, and the female has always been willing to allow the person she trusted to assist at the birth. We also have various accounts of bitches whelping right in the middle of their own pack. But one report that really impressed me was that of Frau Kaiser-Golgojew and her famous pack of Borzois. Her bitches whelped, untroubled, right in the middle of their twenty pack-mates. Births of this kind were a perfectly natural procedure for the other dogs, and there was never any sign of aggression. There is one vital piece of advice I will give to all the breeders. Devote plenty of time to the pregnant bitch, particularly from around the sixth week onwards. Stroke her growing tummy and the teats, and at the same time, the bitch can become used to gentle handling of the vaginal area. In this way, the bitch is being prepared to accept the touch of the human hand on any part of her body. The bitch will also happily lick the human hand, and this, again, is preparation for the licking of the newborn puppy. When whelping begins, the bitch trusts the human hand fully, and knows from experience that it will help her. In almost every book on dogs, it is advised that the bitch should get used to the whelping box in good time, and that she should sleep in the whelping quarters for a good week before the birth. I believe this advice is totally wrong for the hobby breeder, who has from one to three bitches! It is correct that there must be a good whelping box, but it is wrong to leave the bitch alone in the whelping quarters, either in the daytime or at night. During the period before whelping, during whelping itself, and in the first few days afterwards, the bitch should be in close human contact so that she can be observed at all times. Shutting her away in a strange room would entail great cruelty. It would also be very tiresome for the owner to have to run along to the whelping quarters every few minutes to see what his bitch was doing. In the final five days before whelping, we keep our bitches really close to us, thus ensuring optimum animal-human co-operation during the coming birth.
The actual size of the whelping box varies, of course, from breed to breed, but it is of vital importance for the bitch to have adequate room for herself and her puppies during the first two or three weeks. This applies until such time as the puppies are able to crawl about, and move out of their den on their own. An initial guide for measurements is the height and length of the bitch. The width and depth of the box should allow her to lie fully stretched and relaxed in the box. The height of the box should be slightly higher than her height at the shoulder.As regards the outer dimensions, the whelping box could prove detrimental if it is either too large or too small. If the floor space is too great,the puppies may stray and the bitch will become restless because they have got too far away from her. Should the box prove too large, a cardboard box can be fitted into it for the first few days to reduce the available space. A five-centimeter (tow-inch) batten should be fitted right round the underside of the box, forming an air-space beneath the box that serves as insulation. The rear wall and one side of the box are firmly anchored, whereas the other walls are flexible. A U-shaped guide rail should be screwed to the fixed side, and a second guide rail should be fixed to a supporting post fitted to the opposite corner. The front wall of the box fits into these guide rails. As a general rule, this front wall is not put into place until after whelping is over, as it would be in the way during the birth. The flexible side is connected to the rear walls and the supporting post, either by means of small bolts or hooks and staples. Both the flexible side and the lid are hinged to enable them to be opened and closed as required. We always glue smooth narrow slats a few centimeters apart to the flexible side. When this side is let down later on, it serves as an exit and entrance for the puppies. The firmly glued slats provide the pups with a very good hold. The side should not be lowered until the puppies are three weeks old. From this time on, both the bitch and her pups come and go via the lowered side. The front wall with its outlet is replaced by a solid wall so that the bitch has to use the side entrance. When the lid is shut down, the bitch is able to escape from her puppies, whenever she wants to, by jumping on to the roof. In the case of large, heavy or clumsy breeds, it is advisable to fit rails round the inside of the box for the first two weeks. The rails prevent puppies that have strayed behind their mother from being crushed against the sides. Clearly, a puppy thus maltreated would cry, and most bitches react at once. If, however, the breed in question is a heavy one and the bitch is a bit insensitive and stolid, the puppy may well suffocate if there are no protecting rails. Accidents of this kind have happened with bulldogs, bull terriers and boxers. These rails are five to ten to fifteen centimeters ( two to four inches) wide, according to the breed, resting on corner posts ten to fifteen centimeters, high. They are put into place after the birth is over and can easily be removed for cleaning. For more than ten years now, we have been using a special bathroom floor covering of ribbed impregnated soft rubber, or soft artificial fiber for the bottom of the box. The covering is cut larger than the floor of the box so that it extends upward two to three centimeters around the sides, thus preventing me conium, blood, and, later on, urine and feces from soiling the box itself. A floor covering of this kind is easy to clean and dries quickly after cleaning. Well the masterpiece is finished! Where are we going to put it? There are only two possible options. I prefer to have my bitch close to me, even during the night, from about the 58th day onwards. The Whelping box is, therefore, placed beside my bed on the 58th day. This is very much more comfortable for me than sleeping on a camp bed in a whelping quarters. In this way, I do get a few more nights of decent rest. Unless I fall into a very deep sleep, any particular change in the bitch is easily perceptible. I consider it absolutely essential for the breeder to keep his bitch under close surveillance during these days. Unpleasant surprises can thus be avoided.
Now we come to the vital question! What are the signs which indicate that whelping is imminent? In the section on phantom pregnancies, I have already mentioned a number of characteristics. As regards our own bitches, I can only say that one sure sign that a bitch is not about to whelp is the fact that she still enjoys her food. As long as she continues to eat her normal meals with a good appetite, she is not ready to give birth. We have only ever had one exception to this rule. In that particular case, the bitch ate a meal only two hours before giving birth. Otherwise, all our other bitches started to refuse food from eight to twelve hours before parturition set in. Since they were all very fond of their food, this, in itself, was a very clear indication. The temperature guide, so frequently recommended (which I shall deal with in detail later on),has proved to be somewhat unreliable, thought we have tried it time and time again. Our bitches have often shown varying drops in temperature as much as four days before giving birth, but it has never been possible to ascertain any useful data. The instinct to dig - to make a burrow in the ground - also varied very greatly among our dogs. A number of bitches never attempted to dig a hole out of doors, although their very large runs afforded every opportunity for them to do so. There is one clear indication that whelping is about to begin, which is both obvious and reliable, and that is an increased restlessness interspersed with panting. This is the outward sign of the onset of the first stage of labor, the opening phase. Advice about checking the bitches temperature is given in most books. The basic idea here is that, towards the end of the pregnancy, the progesterone dominance in the hormone level declines. This pregnancy hormone has a positive influence on body temperature, and as it declines the body temperature sinks by as much as 4 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Centigrade), and sometimes even further. Clearly, some use can be made of this to predetermine the approximate time of whelping. To take the temperature, insert a normal thermometer deep into the bitch's anus. Only if it is inserted deep enough can a really accurate reading be acquired. The thermometer should be lightly greased beforehand either with oil or Vaseline. The normal temperature in the dog is from 101-102 degrees Fahrenheit (38 to 39 degrees Centigrade), higher, therefore, than that of the human being. Regular checks about every four hours are necessary. We are looking for the lowest reading, which should be around 99 degrees Fahrenheit (36.5 degrees Centigrade). The theory tells us that after reaching its lowest point from approximately 12 to 24 hours before parturition the temperature will begin to rise again towards the normal reading of 101 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Centigrade). However, all the data that I have collected over the years does nothing to confirm this theory. Here is Eberhard Trumler lists, as follows, the typical characteristics of the first stage of labor, the period of dilation: 1. Increasing restlessness 2. Retiring to whelping box 3. Scratching and tearing at her bedding 4. Increasingly frequent licking of her vulva 5. Vaginal discharge 6. Licking floor of box 7. Rapid breathing 8. Worried expression 9. Frequent getting up and lying down 10. Turning around 11. Repeated turning toward her tail 12. Panting 13. Faraway look in her eyes 14. Little response when spoken to 15. Violent digging 16. Intensive swallowing 17. Trembling 18. Preliminary contractions 19. Pressing in of elbows when sitting 20. Whining (seeking protection)
Trumler stresses that these characteristics, from number four onward, really do follow one after the other. Thus, we have a number of behavioral aspects forming a picture, but we must never make the mistake of supposing that every case will follow exactly the same lines. The above listed behavioral characteristics should merely be regarded as an indication that parturition is about to take place. All the visible changes in the bitch, both in her anatomy and in her behavior, are brought about by hormones. This applies to the swelling of the milk glands and the vulva, the falling out of hair around the teats, and the secretion of milk, as well as to the heavy panting and the desire to dig. Around the final day before whelping, the flanks of the bitch fall in, her belly appears to hang lower, the hip bones protrude, and the muscles in her pelvis and uterus slacken, Controlled by the birth hormones, all these muscles become softer and more pliable, as does the part of the uterus called the cervix. There is an increased mucous secretion in the vagina. This all serves to gradually prepare and smooth the way for the passage of the puppies the birth is about to begin. The panting of the bitch, clearest sign of the approaching birth, shows us that in the coming 4 to 10 hours we must concentrate solely on her and her litter. If the whelping box is in the bedroom, then it is there that the birth should take place. If the bitch has slept in a basket beside the bed, now is the time to move with her into the whelping quarters.
What have we done to prepare for the coming birth, to ensure that we have the right item at hand when it is needed? The suitable design for a whelping box has already been presented. To give the bitch something to do when she is overcome by compulsion to dig, it is best to put an old sheet into the box. Newspaper, so often recommended in books, is definitely not a good idea. Admittedly, if used in large quantities, it absorbs the mass of fluid involved in a birth. But how do you get rid of all those soaking newspapers in an age of oil and electric heating, and in the face of the environmental restrictions laid down today? And are old newspapers really all that hygienic? Just consider how many hands they have passed through, and where they may have been stored. If you have a white or light colored breed, the black of the printing ink leaves nasty stains on damp coats. Newspapers retain all the moisture we are trying to avoid. So hand over all those papers you have gathered to the paper collection before the birth takes place. You are not going to need them! I recommend a good solution of detergent for your puppies ( one bucket of water and tow tablespoonfuls of a mild disinfectant) and, in addition, a good quality absorbent cloth. A good quality cloth will take up a great deal of moisture and can easily be wrung out. For the first few weeks, these cloths are quite indispensable. With their aid, meconium, amniotic fluid, blood and urine can quickly be removed from the whelping box, and, together with the detergent solution, they afford optimum disinfecting of the floor of the box on which mother and puppies are lying. The bitch can also be easily cleaned and dried with this cloth. Also you can get used comforters from thrift stores and little cost and they are re washable. A cardboard box, approximately 12 to 15 inches (30 to 40 centimeters) larger or smaller depending on the breed is the next requirement. This should be fitted out with two hot water bottles, the water temperature being around 107 degrees Fahrenheit (42 degrees Centigrade), and well covered over with a thick towel. A second towel should be draped over the top of the box. As the birth continues, the firstborn puppies can be laid into this box should the bitch be either restless or somewhat clumsy. Whether this is likely to be the case or not is something that you cannot foresee. Puppies that have been licked dry and have had their first drink of their mother's milk will lie peacefully in this box, protected from stray draughts by the covering towel, and they will enjoy a little sleep. Those who have seen the amount of moisture involved in whelping and know how restless a bitch may become when she is having contractions, will realize how important it is to have this snug, warm place for those puppies that are dry and have drunk their fill. If complete trust between the bitch and her owner has been built up, she will readily accept this care for her puppies. The cardboard box is close at hand, so that when there is a longer interval between the birth of puppies, the firstborns can be put their mother again to be cleaned up and given a second drink. If a suitable hot water bottle is not available, the cardboard box can be placed beneath an infra red lamp. The most important factor in the use of such lamps is the correct adjustment above the puppies. Place a thermometer where the puppies will be lying. If the thermometer reads between 24 and 28 degrees Centigrade, the puppies will be comfortable under the lamp. If the lamp is positioned correctly, the puppies will lie relaxed beneath it, neither avoiding the direct rays nor bundling up together, In the former case, the lamp is too low and in the latter, it is too high. The bottom of the box should be covered with a piece of toweling or a bit of old blanket. A good, sharp pair of scissors and some thread or unwaxed dental floss to tie off puppy cords. You should never let the mother sever the cords by herself. I have seen to many over zealous mothers tear legs and or bellies open. Tie the cord off tight with the thread or floss, as close to the bellies as you can get,double knot it. Hold the cord in between your two fingers lying flat against the puppies belly, and snip off the cord. Spray the cord with iodine or beta dine. Another requirement is a pair of scales, and a notepad and pen for recording times of birth and weights. The best type of scales to use are those that respond instantly to pressure. I good kitchen scales I find work best. Have plenty of old clean towels at hand to help dry the puppies. When planning for the birth, it is worth bearing in mind that the bitch may not have any milk. This can occur even if she is literally Swimming in milk up to the moment of whelping. Owing to the strain of giving birth, the milk may temporarily dry up, and it is also possible for the number of puppies to be too great for the actual flow of milk. One of the excellent proprietary puppy milk products that are on the market should, therefore be at hand, together with a supply of puppy nursing bottles and or tube-feeding equipment, and an electrically heated bottle warmer should be available to keep the milk warm.
Setting the Right Atmosphere
Keeping calm is the first essential at a birth! Try to keep calm and to give your bitch the feeling that you are there to support her. Your motto should be: We are going to get through this together. Strangers should not be permitted to come into the whelping quarters during the birth. Their presence is disturbing, and the bitch might easily become upset. If she happens to be a good watchdog she might even suddenly remember this responsibility! Whelping will progress more easily the less the mother is distracted from the matter in hand. It is, however, unnecessary to be over-cautious. In the pack, the bitch would be surrounded by her pack-mates. Remember the Borzoi pack of the Kaiser-Golgojew group, which watched the progress of the birth with interest. Bitches who are well used to people, to other animals, and to their surroundings, are not usually easily upset. This also applies to those cases where it is necessary to call in the vet. Most vets approach bitches in such a way that they do not become worried. However, I am strongly opposed to taking the bitch in to the veterinarian when a complication arise. I believe this is very stressful for the bitch. If it is merely a question of giving the bitch an injection to stimulate contractions, or of manipulating a puppy that is apparently stuck in the birth passage, then the vet should come to the whelping quarters. If a Cesarean Section is called for, then the technical equipment and hygiene of a well furnished surgery are essential. As regards the presence of spectators at a whelping, this is a matter for the breeder to decide. I have allowed children in my house to watch this miraculous happening. I have been able to enjoy this wonderful event together with the child, without any of our bitches being in the least upset.
Now we come to an important aspect of nature's laws, and one that has been observed in numerous mammals. As a rule, parturition takes place at a time when the animals would normally be resting. The reason for this is the automatic (involuntary) nervous system. The parasympathetic portion, which slows involuntary functions, determines the time of rest, and the sympathetic portion, which accelerates them, determines the time of activity. It therefore follows that the parasympathetic promotes contractions, whereas the sympathetic impedes them. All of this would be straightforward if we had regular times of rest for our domestic dogs. But just consider the watchdog whose main activity lies in the night, and the family dog that has had to adapt its own activities to suit those of the family. It has frequently been observed that the bitch seeks human companionship when she is about to whelp. If the breeder is away, she may even delay giving birth and wait until he returns home, even if he is absent for several days. The absence of her own well trusted human partner appears to act as an impediment to contractions, a clear indication of how urgently our dogs need their closest social companion when giving birth. This fact alone should surely make all breeders aware of how serious their obligation is to their bitches.
The Labor Begins
Let us return to our own bitch. When we left her, she was plainly panting, a sure sign that the cervix was beginning to open. Panting indicates the onset of the first stage of labor, an outward symptom of internal muscular relaxation, especially in the region of the uterine cervix. The vulva, the outer end of the female genital tract, is also considerably enlarged, moist and soft. There is a white mucous discharge from the vagina. This color is quite in order, it is completely normal, and the whole uterus, an the cervix is beginning to dilate. The unborn puppies, encased in their membranous sacs, are being slowly conducted towards the opening of the uterus, which continues, as though under hydraulic pressure, to dilate. The process of birth is controlled mainly by hormones. It is set in motion by the hormone oxytocin. This hormone also activates lactation. The puppies lying in the two long horns of the uterus are pressed by muscular contractions toward the uterine opening. The fact that mothers afflicted with paraplegia can bear children, proves that these contractions are not controlled by the central nervous system. They are contractions of the smooth muscle fibers, which cannot be voluntarily activated. The muscle fibers contract behind the unborn puppies and drive them on. The bitch has an outstanding internal guidance system, in which a number of muscular centers interact to form a perfect pacemaker. A carefully co-ordinated mechanism guides the delivery from each horn in turn. And here we come across yet another phenomenon. If there is a dead puppy in one of the horns, this interplay is interrupted, and the puppy in the other horn has the right of way! Researchers believe that this is due to the fact that living puppies rotate of their own accord while being born. These wave like, muscular contractions from the ends of the uterine horns press the fetuses in the direction of the body of the uterus, in readiness for being born. During this process the bitch is panting very heavily-100-120 breaths per minute have been counted during this opening phase. The first stage contractions have brought the unborn puppies into the right position. Naaktgeboren compares this to people queuing at the two entries for one gate to a platform. What happens next? At the uterine cervix, there is a kind of threshold, across which the puppies have to pass before they can enter the vagina. A considerable amount of muscular contraction is needed to overcome this particular point. The first stage of parturition the opening stage, can last for several hours. According to Naaktgeboren, the breeder is unable to ascertain the actual onset of this stage, and he quotes an average time of 12 hours for the duration of this phase. Only the expert, equipped with a vaginal speculum, would be able to ascertain how far the cervix has dilated. To me, this all seems somewhat theoretical. What we really need to know is the general time lapse from the moment the bitch begins to pant to the delivery of the first puppy. UGM Admin undergroundmastini
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