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| Author | Post | |||
| Jim Hough |
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 | As I am considering a breeding in the Spring, this is something that has concerned me. This is what I have found in my research: The first few weeks of a puppy's life are crucial. Puppies are fragile and they rely completely on their mother for nutrition as well as social requirements. Puppies that do not survive the first few weeks are afflicted with "fading puppy syndrome" and are called "faders." About 20 to 40 percent of all puppies born do not survive past 12 weeks of age. I have found several breeder "home-remedies," but am not convienced that they will help. I actually spoke with Dr. Dodd yesterday and her approach seems sound. Any thoughts or experience with this issue or treatment option?? Instructions from Dr. Jean Dodds, Hemopet, Canine Blood Bank Treatment of Newborn Puppies Using Fresh-Frozen Plasma during the First 10 Days of Life For this purpose, Fresh-Frozen Plasma comes in 10-12 cc (ml) plastic tubes. This product needs to be sent frozen by priority overnight courier. The recommended dosage of 3 to 5 cc (ml) per pound can be given to each puppy orally (by mouth) or IP (intraperitonealy, by your vet or with his instruction csb) in the first 24-36 hours. Beyond 36 hours of life the plasma must be given intraperitonealy or intravenously. (check with your veterinarian csb) Usually the pups only need to be treated once. However, if they appear to be fading, the dose can be repeated in 5-7 days later if necessary, but it must be IP or IV. Do not give more than 10cc(ml) at one time. Fading Puppy Syndrome Fresh-Frozen Plasma can also be given at any time during the first 10 days of life if newborns appear to be fading for any reason. (IP by vet or with vet instruction csb) 3-4 cc (ml) per puppy for tiny puppies 3-5 cc (ml) per pound for larger puppies Veterinarians: The Treatment of Puppies Using Fresh-Frozen Plasma to Counteract Parvo Virus A. Thaw plasma in warm (not hot) water. B. Administer intravenously at a dosage of 3 to 5 cc (ml) per pound Selected References Bouchard, F et al 1992 "Absorption of an alternative Source of Immunoglobin in Pups" AM J Vet Res 53:230-233 Dodds, W. J. 1993 "Known Medical Indications for Using Fresh-Frozen Plasma" DVM Magazine 24 (4): 42-43 Poffenberger, E.M. & Olson P.N., et al 1991. "Use of Adult Dog Serum as a Substitute For Colostrum in the Neonatal Dog." AM J Vet Res 52: 1221_1224 Click This Link Click This Link Click This Link Jim Hough Illini Mastini | |||
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| JLBG |
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 | Honestly I have experienced and been hands on with raising quite few litters of different breeds over the years. In my experience, if a pup isn't going to make it, you will generally lose them within the first week. That is the most important week. We have NEVER lost a pup after 10 days (at the most and I actually think closer to 7 days is correct). We have had some that went down hill but we were able to get them going again with supplimental feedings and extra TLC but again, all within the first week). Some pups just won't make it no matter what you do. We are big on letting nature take its course (as long as the pup isn't suffering) to a point but we will intervene when necessary. If mom keeps putting the pup aside, those are usually the ones you can't save (despite your best efforts). She knows better than anyone. And we let mom do ALL of the work. The ONLY time we ever give supplimental feedings (of goats milk) is if one of the pups is smaller than the others (just to help it along), if a pup seems weak and we are trying to turn it around or if we have a big litter and mom can't do all the work herself. If she can't take care of them properly herself, then she shouldn't be bred. We have never had to go to extremes with any litter. And we try not to listen to everything out there because the majority of it is ridiculous and just makes you worry. And one thing to keep in mind, if an otherwise healthy puppy all of a sudden gets seriously ill after the first week or two, you should be looking at the bigger picture. Healthy pups live (especially if raised properly). If they are unhealthy, why? Is it environmental? If so, you should see more than one pup afflicted and should be able to narrow down what is causing the illness. Otherwise, look at the parents. Healthy dogs should not produce unhealthy pups. Just my opinion. Jessica | |||
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| Jim Hough |
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| | Jessica, I tend to agree with you. In nature only the strong survive, and healthy parents should breed healthy pups. I have been involved with dogs many years, but have never whelped a litter. So, if I do..............I;m concerned about complications and am looking at as many issues as I can. I am well aware that a lot can go wrong, but if I decide to do this, and that depends on some more health tests with my intended sire and dam, I want to get as prepared as possible. Thanks for your input!! Jim Hough Illini Mastini | |||
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| Joni |
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 | The only time I have ever had problems Jim is when I had a VERY premature litter. It was a litter of 12 born 9 days prematurely. They were very tiny and had no fur. They looked like naked mole rats. This was a bullmastiff litter. Their lungs were not completely developed and we had a lot of "gaspers". We spent a lot of time at the vets. The vet gave steroid injections to try to help the lungs become stronger. The pups had to be tube fed because they were too small to suckle. We had to make sure that they were very warm and had to feed via a stomach tube every two hours. We lost all but 3 puppies. One of them went on to be a very successful champion show dog. He is HUGE now. But we lost so many puppies (in my opionion) because I honestly believe the vet techs flooded their lungs trying to feed them with droppers. They would inhale the formula and it caused lung infections. This was actually my very first litter and I learned so much from the experience. For one thing you are way better off to feed with a stomach tube than a dropper  Temperature is extremely important. I like to keep my welping box around 85 degrees. Make sure that you have a lot of coffee stockpiled Expect no sleep for days and insanity to creep in . I have heard of using plasma spun down and given via stomach tube when the pups are too small or weak to nurse. We have a centrifuge and syringes here so we can spin our own blood if the need arises. Breast milk/colostrum is the best if the pups are strong enough to nurse. Good luck! Joni Doten | |||
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| JLBG |
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| | Jim, my best advice would be to just Breathe and Relax. Try not to worry about everything that CAN go wrong because most of the time it won't. Be prepared but don't think about it too much, you will just stress yourself and in turn, the dogs will get stressed. I think that too many people just want answers for EVERY little thing, so they come up with all of these ways of finding those answers or preventing things from happening that most likely won't. As long as the parents are healthy and properly cared for, once the pups are born, things should be pretty easy. Lots of work, but nothing incredibly difficult. Just think, canines have been around for 1000's of years and they have mananged to survive, all of these "tests" and "preventative procedures" are newer and, in my opinion, mostly unnecessary. And isn't it ironic that there are more health problems in dogs nowadays as well? Maybe some of that has to do with working against nature and letting pups survive that shouldn't have. Or going on to breed dogs that almost died as pups. Nature has a way of weeding out the "good" from the "bad" and if mom accepts the fact that a pup won't survive, shouldn't we? Just enjoy your dogs, do the health testing and enjoy any pups you have. Take things one day at a time. Jessica | |||
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